X-Shot Motorized Piston Pump AEB

[quakmann]

@Euler Is aber leider gar nicht schön. Und ohne Anlegen, fehlt mir auch das feeling. Habe gerade mal stockless getestet...
Aber danke für's Verlinken

 

[Euler]

@Euler Is aber leider gar nicht schön

Eindeutig, das andere ist deutlich besser, aber ich wollte es trotzdem erwähnen.

 

[Xine1337]

@Euler Is aber leider gar nicht schön. Und ohne Anlegen, fehlt mir auch das feeling. Habe gerade mal stockless getestet...
Aber danke für's Verlinken

Wie wär's mit Austausch gegen einen Airsoft-Stock mit Batteriefach?
Die Auswahl ist da optisch und preislich riesig, man muss nur darauf achten, dass der Stock für AEG bzw. Realsteel ist. Bei GBB kann es da Probleme geben.

Da passen dann nebenbei auch meist voluminösere Akkus hinein.

 

[quakmann]

@Xine1337 Auch ne gute Idee. Habe jetzt erstmal die andere Verschlussmutter dran gemacht, um die zu testen. Dann sehen wa weiter.

 

[Krijn]

wäre nun interessant, in wie weit das auch den adapter betrifft, den BT verkauft.
@Krijn if you haven't seen it already, maybe you should investigate your adapter too, to avoid any unwanted issues.

Looking into it.
What I'm curious about is what their cable was made of. After some e-mails back and forth they couldn't tell me if they used a genuine JST connector or not, and they couldn't tell me the type of wire and it's thickness. Which has me somewhat suspicious.

A battery will not "Push" energy, it will only deliver what the blaster asks for. It's hard to measure the peak draws, but the connector should be able to handle the current (technically). Changing from the stock Li-Ion to a LiPo only increases the ROF slightly - so just draws a bit more amps.

The wire thickness is the same as in the blaster, only thing is that the connector maybe adds resistance and/or can not handle the current.

In the case of OOD's adapter, the cable melted, not the connector itself. I don't fully understand it to be honest.

 

[Jack Diesel]

depending on how many failures they had (i have not looked deeper into that), it could just be bad stock and the next delivery they get is fine.
but seeing how their adapter has the thick long heatshrink over the whole thing, i am not surprised by it maybe getting hotter than whats good for it.

 

[Hoeni]

I highly suspect that the wire is some AlCu mix (think old East German wiring) that looks like pre tinned copper wires but is in fact copper coated aluminum wire. Way worse.
Allot of the wire I get with pre crimped now feature this stuff.

You can do a simple test to see if it’s proper copper or alcu wire: hold a lighter under the end (remove plastic insulation first). Of the wire looks like it’s burning and turning black and shrinks fast, it’s AlCu. If it simply gets soft and drops towards flame but no burning/shrinking, it’s likely full copper.

 

[medusa]

Ja, das ist Gewinnoptimierung. Alu ist nun mal billiger als Kupfer. Wenn man industriell große Mengen davon verarbeitet, ist's halt billiger.

 

[Foamsnake]

Wire gauge thickness as in measured or just from the outside appearances? Some wires have 80% insulation and at tiny 0.25mm² Aluminum compound wire meant for pure signal transportation. Extreme case, yes, but just mentioned that to make my point

Also material does matter, copper, almgs, mixed plating...it's not the same for the gauge size required. usually you have to go 1 gauge bigger (Smaller number!) sometimes two.
e.G.

99% Copper = 1mm² / 18AWG
CCA (Copper plated alu) = 1.2mm² /16AWG
Aluminium = 1.6mm² (1.5mm²) / 14AWG

for the same amperage requirement.

Also, if you mix copper and aluminium wires you have to get an anti oxidation compound in there, else it will corrode and make a poor contact over time, resistance = heat, burning.